Monthly Archives: July 2011

We were thrilled to read the following revue by Tamlyn Currin on Jancis Robinson's web site www.jancisrobinson.com

"I don’t often go back twice, no, three times, during a tasting to the same
wine. It’s even more rare that it’s a white Burgundy under £15 that has
thrilled me so much. Of course, the price is probably everything to do with
the fact that it hails from the sunny Mâconnais and doesn’t have the
illustrious postcodes of its northern neighbours. But that doesn’t detract
from the fact that this bottle of sunny Chardonnay is a serious summer
bargain.

Domaine Cheveau is run by Nicolas Cheveau, who has 14 ha across the Mâcon, with a small underground winery in Pouilly. It was started by his grandfather André in 1950, and Nicolas has now taken over from his father Michel. As is not entirely unusual, all the grapes are picked by hand and he doesn’t use fertilisers, but he must be doing something special because the purity and clarity of his wines really sing out. The other delightful thing about this particular wine is that it needs no patience; it is
absolutely deliciously ready to drink right now. Although, judging by comments from others on the 2009 vintage, it will certainly keep well for a couple of years.

This particular wine is from a small parcel of relatively young vines (16 years) grown on a clay-limestone hillside. There is no oak used – all stainless steel – but the wine is kept on fine lees for eight months. It clocks in at a civilised 13.5% alcohol.

My scribbled notes read, ‘An inviting nose with a hint of creaminess, hazelnuts and juicy yellow peach. Gentle roundness and weight, apricot tang and crisp apple. This really opens up and spreads across the mouth. Backbone of minerality. Real intensity. Tense acidity. Long. Superb. VVGV!’

Cheveau also makes a gorgeous Bourgogne Blanc and a much more serious Pouilly-Fuissé called Les Trois Terroirs, both of which are being sold in the UK at Caviste (along with the Sur Le Mont) for £13.95 and £18.95 respectively. The 2009 vintage, which Jancis recommended in 75 sure-fire whites, is available too."

We currently have available:
2009 Domaine Cheveau Macon Solutré-Pouilly @ £13.95 per Bt (Limited availability)
2010 Domaine Cheveau Macon Solutré-Pouilly @ £13.95 per Bt
2010 Domaine Cheveau  Bourgogne Blanc @ £13.95 per Bt
2009 Domaine Cheveau Pouilly Fuisse ‘Trois Terroir’ @ £18.95  per Bt

Saturday’s tasting saw one of our most exciting and cutting edge line ups for Caviste in a long while, and by all accounts, listening to customer reviews, was one of the most exciting tastings put on this year. One representative of a very famous national scribe so loved the idea of our new Albarino she drove hours to get to the tasting and proceeded to be blown away by the rest of the range too. Bibei, Labastida, Forjas del Salnes and Encus were all tasting tip top, and never has one man been so proud of his troops as on this day!

It was fantastic to taste through the new Spinifex range with a few people who have been following these guys for some years. The wines are fresh and inviting and retain a complexity that older vintages have, but these seemed to leap into an extra dimension, with more purity and a confidence that comes from knowing the fruit you work with just that little bit longer. The 2010 Lola is so refined as to be comparable to Southern Rhone white of the highest quality and it is great to see the new vintages of old classics such as Papillon and Esprit, as well as some new faces in Bete Noir, La Maline and Taureau, a homage to Rioja.

Best in show for Burgundy had to be the Cheveau wines, with the new 2010 Macon Solutre-Pouilly thrilling all with the racy acidity and beautifully restrained mineral palate. The Trois Terroir 2009 is knock out too and although stocks are running out there is still a little more of this left in the shops. Finally if you get a chance, check out the 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Graveirette (£30). This is a difficult vintage but proves my rule that great producers can make great wine in any vintage, and Julien Mus has really excelled here to produce a scented, perfectly balanced CdP that in fact has a freshness and immediacy that many 2007’s and 2009’s lack, making it an exceedingly attractive proposition to drink now.

Thank you for all who attended, it was great to see you and for your feedback and comments, it was a cracking day and you made it a fun day for all the Caviste team too!